Exploring Bangkok

Excerpts from the Guide are provided for your information. You need to refer to the Bangkok Guide 17th Edition for complete details.

This chapter in the Bangkok Guide contains detailed information on these topics:

Bangkok, a dynamic and sophisticated city, has lots to offer and an intriguing story to tell... Bangkok is situated on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River, near the Gulf of Thailand. It was originally “the village of the wild plum trees” (Ban Kok), becoming the capital city of Thailand in 1767, the year King Rama I ascended the throne and the Royal Court relocated from Ayutthaya. The capital was first located in Thonburi on the western bank of the river but was then moved across the river to the present-day area of Rattanakosin in 1782. Bangkok was then laced with canals and was known as the “Venice of the East” by European visitors. Its waterways were a vital means of transportation and trading.

Today, Bangkok is called Krung Thep (City of Angels) by the local people. It is a modern, vibrant and sophisticated metropolis of striking contrasts and unique beauty, charms and quirks. Chaotic, traffic choked streets can suddenly become quiet oases just around the next corner; glittering temples and gilded stuccos rise from urban sprawl and lush tropical gardens peep from impossible places; palm trees and idyllic waterways pepper nearby outskirts and street vendors will prepare hot spicy food for you at every turn. You will discover an oriental charm, a blend of colonial, contemporary and commercial shophouses, pockets of residential and government areas, signs of traditional life along the city’s canals, a warm, friendly and tolerant people welcoming you with wide smiles, ready laughter and quiet courtesy. However, as 21st century modernisation takes hold of this fascinating city, you will notice many changes are afoot. Some of the most enjoyable and memorable sights are those you get by just wandering around, simply looking at places and people. By exploring it for yourself, you will be able to come to you own conclusions, and they will almost always be good ones.

The city planners see the Bangkok of today as not only the gateway to Thailand, but also a regional centre for tourists and business visitors, a natural hub for Asia, a strategic location between the growing markets of India and China and a regional strategic location for investments for its neighbours of North Asia. With the opening of its new international airport, Suvarnabhumi Airport, in September 2006, Bangkok moves comfortably into the 21st century and beyond.

In coming to grips with this city, it is important to have some knowledge of the districts or areas. The lay-out of sites and major attractions is designed to help you better understand the city, use your time efficiently and encourage you to explore areas you may not have known about. It includes main attractions, palaces, royal sites, museums, monuments, shrines, wats, parks, walking tours, river tourism, canal trips, one and two-day city tours, plus valuable inside knowledge from longtime residents: a user-friendly guide for a rather frenetic and daunting but irresistible city.

TRAVEL TIPS

Try to plan your day by considering Thai holidays, Friday traffic, appropriate dress, the time of day and heat of sun; as well as location and method of transport. The sections in the chapter featuring Main attractions, One or two-day tours, and Sites by area/ district will facilitate your planning as many of the major tourist sites are quite close and within the same district. It is very important to have a good map and small change for buying drinks and taxi or tuk tuk fares, as drivers often do not have change for larger notes (i.e. 500 or 1000 baht). Cold drinks are available everywhere, as are ATMs.

Take a comprehensive map of Bangkok, small change, a water bottle, sunblock and a cap or hat.

RELIGIOUS OBSERVANCE

Be aware that at 0800 and 1800 daily, the Thai national anthem is played over a sound system in public places like the BTS and Lumpini Park and you should stand still, as the Thais do.

FINES

Tourists can get fined for overstaying their visa, not wearing a motorcycle helmet and other traffic offenses, not having a train ticket, and for spitting, littering and discarding cigarette stubs in public areas (up to 2000 baht).

TIRED OF THE CITY?

Nearby provinces offer interesting attractions that are worth a visit, including the ancient city and former capital of Ayutthaya, the Erawan Museum and Crocodile Farm in Samut Prakarn, Ko Kret in Nonthaburi, the National Science Museum and Dreamworld in Pathum Thani, among others. All the information you will need is contained in the Beyond Bangkok chapter.

THEATRE SPECTACULAR - SIAM NIRAMIT

This fabulous show about Thailand, its culture and history is well worth attending. Siam Niramit, Ratchada Theatre, a cultural feast depicting the enchanted Kingdom of Siam. Refer to the Theatre section of the Leisure Activities & Sports chapter for further information.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA), headed by the Governor of Bangkok, is responsible for the management of the fifty districts of the city, covering an area of over 1,600 sq km, stretching from Nong Chok in the east to Taling Chan in the west, north to Don Muang and south-west to Bang Khun Thian.

BMA Bangkok Tourism Division (also Bangkok Tourist Bureau) 17/1 Phra Arthit Rd. T: 0-2225-7612-4. Open: 0900-1900 daily. www.bma.go.th, www.bangkoktourist.com It is on the road that goes under Phra Pinklao bridge near Khao San Rd and offers up-to-date information on attractions in the fifty districts, helpful English speaking staff, excellent maps, walking tours, district guides, information on historical Rattanakosin Island (where Bangkok was first built), bus routes, klong trips and other sightseeing tours. There are twenty-four kiosks around Bangkok, known as ‘Tourist Information of Bangkok Kiosks’.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd. T: 0-2250-5500. Open: 0830-1630 daily. www.tourismthailand.org TAT Call Centre, T: 1672. Open: 0800-2000.

GETTING AROUND THE CITY

Buses, Trains, River, Klongs, Walking, Organised Tours

more information is contained in the Getting around section in the Getting Settled & General Services chapter.

Buses

The main form of transport in the city and the cheapest way to get around if you are adventurous and have plenty of time, although best to avoid the rush hour. Fares range from 3.50 baht to most destinations within metropolitan Bangkok, 8 and 18 baht for air-conditioned buses, and 25 baht for air-conditioned red micro-buses. Airport buses to and from the city are also available. A Bus Route Map is available at bookstores and the TAT office.

Trains

Skytrain

The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network, covering the major commercial areas and tourist spots. Trains run every few minutes from 0600 to 2400. It is fast, safe, reliable and a most convenient way to travel especially in heavy traffic jams. You can get a Special Tourist Pass for unlimited travel for one day (100 baht) or three days (280 baht). Skybridges connect to many buildings and shopping centres and elevators for the disabled have been installed in five stations.

BTS Tourist Information Centres T: 0-2617-7340. Open: 0800-2000 daily. www.bts.co.th Located at Siam, Nana and Saphan Taksin stations, providing useful information on attractions and tour booking services, such as the Chao Phraya River Tour, and passes to selected temples. Check their excellent publication which is a must to give your visitors - BTS Skytrain Travel Guide, Explore Bangkok with BTS Skytrain.

Subway

Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) underground metro system is another fast and reliable way to get around town. In Thai it’s called rotfaifah mahanakhon (metropolitan electric train), but is more commonly known as rotfai taidin, literally ‘underground train’. The 21km, 18-station Blue Line connects to the BTS at Silom, Sukhumvit and Chatuchak Park stations. Lifts and ramps are found at all stations, providing easy access for wheelchairs and prams.www.bangkokmetro.co.th

For further details about the BTS and MRT are in the Getting Settled & General Services chapter.

River transport

Exploring Bangkok by boat is a peaceful respite from the bustle and traffic, as well as fun and convenient. There are several different types of boats and ferries that travel along the Chao Phraya River, between clearly signed piers (tha). To avoid traffic, it is a good idea to take the BTS to Saphan Taksin, walk down to the pier and connect with the ferries. See List of Numbered Stops/Piers for Chao Phraya Express Boats, this chapter. www.bangkok-city.com/expressboat (excellent map for ferries).

Express boats (reua duan)

Chao Phraya Express Boat Company runs this excellent service. www.bts.co.th/en/shop_02.asp

• ROUTE The basic route takes one hour and thirty minutes, running from Wat Rajsingkorn, just upriver from the Krung Thep Bridge in the south (S4), and Nonthaburi (N30) in the north.
• PIERS (Tha) Tha Sathorn connects with the Skytrain network at Saphan Taksin station, and is called Central Pier. Piers to the south of Central Pier are numbered S1, S2 etc, those to the north N1, N2 and so on. Due to congestion on the river, boats going downstream (south) now stop on the Thonburi bank, upstream (north) boats on the Bangkok side; frequent cross-river ferries connect the two sides. Some piers charge a landing fee of about 20 baht for private boats e.g. at Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).

Standard ferries

These run between piers S4 and N30, are of a reasonable size and have white hulls with red stripes. They fly different coloured flags for different routes and stops. They provide a daily service leaving every 15 minutes or so, from 0500-1800. The last boat in each direction flies a dark blue flag.

Non-flag ferries

These stop at all piers and are the cheapest. Operate from 0600-1800 daily.

Special Express ferries - orange flags

Limited-stop services on set routes during rush hours (0600-0900 and 1500-1800 Mon-Sat).

Tourist boats – light blue flags

Run between Sathorn and Banglamphu, departing every 30 minutes, between 0930 and 1500. On-board guides provide running commentaries

• ONE DAY TICKET provides for unlimited trips and use of express boats within same route between 0900 and 1930 for 100 baht.
• TIPS: To board, signal the boat from the pier, then pay the fare once on board. Fares are inexpensive and the price relates to the distance travelled. Make sure you have some change handy and know the number of your ferry stop. As you near your destination, stand towards the back of the boat so the driver knows to let you off. Note, for religious and cultural reasons women should not sit next to monks.

Cross river ferries (reua kham fak)

These flat barges with a few seats are smaller and slower and simply go back and forth across the river at each pier. They depart every five minutes, fares are less than 5 baht and you can pay either on the pier before getting on, or at the other side. Operate daily from 0530-2300.

Long-tail boats (reua hang yao)

Public long-tail boats are the noisy, narrow boats with long-shafted propellers. They speed up and down the klongs, are inexpensive and quick. However, be prepared to get off quickly as stops are swift. Some piers now have names in Thai and English.

Private long-tail boats can usually accommodate five to six adults and a number of children, making them ideal for family or group outings. Make sure you negotiate the price before boarding the boat, you can expect to pay a minimum of 700 baht per hour. If you take an early morning trip you can see monks receiving alms, children hurrying to school, people swimming, diving and fishing in the waterways, vendors offering their wares and everyday life along the klongs. Sunset trips are recommended as you float by traditional Thai houses and temples.

Long-tail boats can be hired easily from a number of landings/piers including: Sathorn (Central Pier), Tha Oriental Pier N1 (Oriental Hotel), Tha Si Phraya Pier N3 (near Sheraton Hotel), and Tha Chang Pier N9 (near the Grand Palace).

• BOAT TOUR CENTRE AT RIVER CITY (located outside on the river – up from Tha Si Phraya Pier N3). Set hourly rates, is efficient and easy to book. Once tickets have been purchased, staff will obtain a boat and inform the boatman where you would like to go. Rates at the Centre are competitive.

The Bangkok-Nonthaburi, Chao Phraya River, Bangkok Noi Canal Guide from the Tourist Information Division, TAT Call Centre T: 1672 (Open: 0800-2000), is an excellent guide for sights and temples that are ‘off-the-beaten-track’ along the canals on the Thonburi side. Taling Chan boat trips, operating on weekends, also offer more rural sightseeing tours along the klongs. See Thonburi, Taling Chan in the Bangkok in more detail section, this chapter.

Walking

There are many different areas of Bangkok which are best explored by foot, especially Chinatown or Rattanakosin. Pace yourself regarding distances and the heat. Be careful of the paving which can be treacherous, wear flat and comfortable footwear. Except for shopping centres, Bangkok is not a particularly good environment for strollers or wheelchairs. Crossing the road can be dangerous, as cars do not generally stop at pedestrian crossings. It is best to do as the locals do and wait for a few people to congregate before surging across the road. There are always plenty of taxis and tuk tuks cruising past when you get tired of walking.

Organised tours

Many hotels in Bangkok offer tour options for travel in or beyond Bangkok. Alternatively, book through a travel agency. The following organised tours have been recommended as interesting and enjoyable.

Find out more about these in The Bangkok Guide 17th Edition.

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